Mach1's Power Wheels DeWalt Adapter That Makes DIY Easy!

The Role It Plays

This adapter acts as a battery converter, allowing you to safely power 12V–20V systems using tool batteries you may already own. It's ideal for: 

• Parents upgrading their kids’ ride-on cars for longer playtime 
• Makers and builders who need a portable power source for robotics 
• Tinkerers tired of bulky SLA batteries or underpowered NiMH cells 

Built with high-quality materials and engineered for compatibility, our adapter eliminates the risks of cheap, unregulated knockoffs, offering dependable performance and better safety. 

Common risks of DeWalt-to-Power-Wheels hacks include: 

• Mismatched Voltage: Running ~18–20V on a 12V-rated motor causes overheating, blown gears/fuses, and rapid wear. Under‑powering a 24V toy with an 18V battery causes poor speed and can strain the motor at low speeds. 
• Overheating: Both the battery and the toy’s controller/motors can overheat under higher voltage/current. High-current draws (especially if wiring is undersized) risk melting insulation or causing shorts. 
• Wiring Issues: Soldering large (10–12 AWG) wires is challenging; poor joints add resistance and heat. DIY kits often skip proper fuse holders or use inadequate switch contacts, which is a fire hazard if wires overheat. 

Overall, a tool-battery adapter is simply an unregulated way to power a toy from 18–20V packs. It transforms the slide-on connection into a battery lead; nothing in between protects or matches the voltages. Use of thicker wires, automotive fuses, and a safe switch is critical in any mod. 

Safety and Legal Concerns 

No power-tool battery adapter is officially approved by Power Wheels’ maker (Mattel) for use in ride-on toys. In fact, the Power Wheels manual explicitly warns that “use of the wrong type battery or charger could cause a fire or explosion” and that using Power Wheels components in other products “could cause overheating, fire or explosion”. In other words, mixing a drill battery with a child’s ride-on is outside the designed scope. 

• Warranty Void: Any third-party modification voids warranties. Mattel clearly states that unauthorized changes (e.g., using non-stock parts) “will void the product warranty and may pose safety and reliability issues”. DeWalt’s own warranty covers defects in tools, not misuse in toys. Altering battery packs or using them off-label (e.g., running them fully flat or in other devices) typically voids that warranty as well. 
• Fire Hazard: Lithium packs (DeWalt packs use lithium-ion) can catch fire if overheated or shorted. Aftermarket kits often lack proper safety certification. While LiFePO4 cells (like those in purpose-built kits) are quite stable, generic Li-ion packs can overheat under extreme drain or if improperly charged. Any adapter that bypasses a battery’s built-in protection, or uses uncertified wiring, increases the risk of thermal runaways. For example, one DIYer who doubled his toy’s voltage warned, “by boosting… You are at risk of burning motors and, more importantly, risking the safety of the rider.” – In fact, his child later rolled the faster toy and had to remove the extra battery. 
• Speed Regulation: Stock Power Wheels have simple electronic controllers and fuses sized for 12V. Feeding higher voltage can overwhelm them. Some DIY kits add a PWM speed controller or fuse board to mitigate this, but many lack any low-voltage cutoff or current limiting. Without these safeguards, batteries can be over-discharged, and motors shorted under load. 

In short, DeWalt adapters are not engineered for ride-on toys and carry known hazards. Parents and tinkerers should recognize that any hack bypasses the intended safety features. The child’s safety should never be traded for a speed boost – as one modder bluntly notes, when you go beyond the design, “you follow this instructible at your own risk”. 

Mach1 Lithium Kits: Professional Ride-On Batteries 

• Companies like Mach1Lithium now offer purpose-built LiFePO4 battery kits for ride-on toys. These come as complete 12V or 24V packs with matching Power Wheels connectors or mounts, and include built-in electronics for safety. Mach1’s 12V packs (for example) use lithium-iron-phosphate cells, which are lighter and more stable than lead-acid. According to Mach1, their LiFePO4 batteries “offer double the power, while being significantly lighter in weight” and have a lifespan 8–10× longer than SLA.  In practice, that means a 12V 5–10 Ah Mach1 kit can outlast a stock battery by years and provide more usable energy per pound. 

Compared to a DIY DeWalt hack, a Mach1 kit is plug-and-play: it has the correct connector (often OEM plug) and pre-wired fuse holder or BMS. For example, Mach1’s 12.8V 5AH pack is marketed as a drop-in SLA replacement with double the output and much longer life. In many cases, the only work is unbolting the old battery box and plugging in the new pack. Users report smoother acceleration and charge behavior, since the lithium pack holds steady 12.8V until nearly depleted (whereas a lead-acid droops from ~13.0 V downward). Lithium kits also charge faster and have over-discharge protection, so the toy performs consistently across the entire battery cycle. 

DIY/Competitor Adapter Critique 

Many YouTube videos and forum threads promote power-tool battery hacks. However, they often gloss over critical safety steps. Common flaws include: 

• No Fuse or Cutoff: A surprising number of DIY guides neglect the inline fuse. As one tutorial bluntly warns, “No matter what battery mods you do… You need an inline fuse. DO NOT SKIP THE FUSE”. Without a proper fuse (30A+ for 12V, higher for 24V setups), a short or stall can lead to wiring burning or fire. Some Amazon kits now advertise included fuses and 12AWG wire, but it’s still on the builder to wire them correctly. 
• Choppy Soldering: Soldering 10–12 AWG wire is difficult. Poor joints add resistance and hot spots. Many DIYers use suboptimal crimps or heat-shrink that can fail under vibration and heat. A factory kit avoids this by using molded leads and connectors. 
• Lack of Controller: A true throttle controller (with PWM) can prevent voltage spikes and give smoother acceleration. Many “hacks” simply jumper the battery to the motor input, making the car jerky. More advanced kits (and some competing products) do include controllers and switches, but these are DIY-assembled components of varying quality. In contrast, Mach1’s stock-lithium kits are sealed and tested as a unit.

In summary, DIY adapters demand careful electrical work (fuses, gauge, crimping, insulation) and still can’t fully match a dedicated pack. Mach1 and similar kits trade off a higher parts cost for peace of mind: they are pre-wired with the right gauge, built-in BMS or cutoff, and tested to not “pop the circuits” as easily. When safety is on the line, a ready-made, pre-wired solution removes a lot of the guesswork. 

User Pain Points and Solutions 

• Cost of OEM vs. DIY: A new OEM Power Wheels battery (12V) can cost $60–80 or more. For savvy tinkerers, the appeal of using “free” tool batteries or buying a cheap adapter kit (<$15) is strong. However, when accounting for potential damage (fried batteries, burned motors) and time spent wiring, the savings shrink. Mach1’s kits cost on the order of $100–200, which is more than an OEM lead-acid, but they provide higher capacity and longevity. Some families opt to reuse old drill batteries, but these often die quickly (see “DeWalt battery won’t recharge” posts). 
• Runtime Issues: Stock 12V toys typically get ~1 hour of play on a 12Ah SLA. A LiFePO4 upgrade can add 30–50% more run-time per charge. In contrast, a 5Ah power-tool battery on an 18V mod might run only 20–30 minutes before sagging. Mach1’s lithium kits come in 5Ah–12Ah sizes; even a 7.2Ah pack can outlast a 12Ah SLA because lithium energy density is higher. Faster charging is another plus – LiFePO4 packs often charge in 1–2 hours compared to ~12–18 hours for SLA. 
• Weight: Lead-acid 12V batteries weigh 7–9 lb; a 24V (two 12V) pack is double that. A typical DeWalt 20V battery weighs just a couple pounds. LiFePO4 12V packs fall in between: e.g., Mach1’s 7.2Ah 12V pack is very light (~4 lb) yet delivers more energy. This weight saving makes the toy easier to maneuver and reduces strain on gears. 
• Safety Concerns: Above all, parents worry about safety. “Don’t risk your kid’s toy with power-tool batteries,” is a common refrain. LiFePO4 kits (like Mach1’s) are considerably safer by design: iron-phosphate chemistry is inherently more stable, and quality kits include an appropriate fuse and BMS. Most off-the-shelf DeWalt adapters and DIY mods have no independent overcurrent cutoff. For peace of mind, many families prefer a commercial Li-ion kit tested for the application (even if it costs more). 

By comparing these factors, one finds that a modest premium for a pre-built lithium kit often solves many pain points. The higher upfront cost buys longer life, extra runtime, and fewer safety questions – essentially a “no-hassle” upgrade in exchange for the price. 

OEM vs DIY vs Mach1: Quick Comparison